Buying a Used Motorcycle: How to Check Its Fuel Efficiency Before You Pay

A second-hand motorcycle can be a bargain, but a bike that drinks fuel can cost far more over a year than a slightly more expensive one that runs efficiently. Sellers often quote the mileage the bike gave when it was new, and that figure may be far from the truth. These checks help you find out the real condition before you hand over any money.

Why efficiency matters when buying

Imagine two bikes of the same model. One gives 45 km per litre, and the other gives 35 because of wear and neglect. For a rider who travels 800 km a month, the first needs about 17.8 litres and the second about 22.9 litres. At an illustrative Rs 400 per litre, the difference is about Rs 2,000 a month, which is Rs 24,000 a year. A cheaper price on the weaker bike may disappear within a year.

Start with the paperwork

Check that the registration book and the owner's details match, that the engine and chassis numbers on the bike match the papers and that there are no unpaid fees. A bike with doubtful papers is not worth buying at any price. If you are unsure, take someone who has bought vehicles before.

Look at the engine and exhaust

• Starting. Ask to see it start from cold. A good engine starts without much fuss. Difficulty, or heavy use of the choke, can mean a fuel or ignition problem.
• Smoke. Watch the exhaust. A little white vapour on a cold morning is normal. Continuous blue smoke suggests oil burning, and black smoke suggests too much fuel, and both cost money.
• Sound. Listen at idle and when revving. Knocking, ticking or a rough, uneven idle suggests wear or poor tuning.
• Leaks. Look under the engine and around the gaskets for oil seepage, and check the fuel lines and tank for leaks.

Check the parts that rob mileage

• Chain and sprockets. A stretched chain with worn, hooked teeth wastes power. Look for tight spots and rust.
• Tyres. Check tread, cracks and uneven wear, and the pressure. Uneven wear can also point to alignment problems or past accidents.
• Brakes. Spin each wheel with the bike on its stand. A wheel that does not spin freely may have a dragging brake, which wastes fuel.
• Air filter. Ask to see it. A clogged filter is a sign of poor maintenance, though it is cheap to replace.
• Spark plug. If the owner agrees, a look at the plug tells you much about how the engine has been running.

Look for signs of care

A bike that is cleaned, with fresh oil of the right colour and a set of service records, usually comes from an owner who looked after it. Ask when it was last serviced and which parts were changed. Be cautious of a bike that has been freshly washed to hide leaks, or one with many cheap non-standard parts.

The mileage test

The most useful check is to measure the real fuel use. If the seller agrees, do the following together.

1. Fill the tank to the top at a station, using the same technique each time, and note the odometer reading.
2. Ride a known route of 15 to 30 kilometres at normal speeds, including some town riding.
3. Return to the same station and fill to the top again, with the bike upright and on the same side.
4. Divide the kilometres ridden by the litres added.

The result is rough over a short distance, but it can reveal a bike that is far worse than the seller claims. Compare it with the typical figure for that model from owners' reports, not from the seller or the brochure. A big shortfall means you should either walk away or negotiate a price that covers repairs.

Do not forget the odometer

Odometers on older bikes can be changed. Judge by the wear on the pedals, seat, handlebar grips and tyres. A bike with a very low reading but badly worn controls deserves suspicion.

Negotiating the price

Use your findings. Estimate the cost of a service, a new chain set, tyres and an air filter, and subtract those from your offer. Add to this the extra fuel the bike will use compared with a healthy one, using the method in our guide to calculating monthly fuel cost.

After you buy

Service the bike straight away, since you do not know when it was last done. Replace the oil, filter and plug, check the chain and tyre pressure, and then measure your own mileage over a few tanks. Our guide to getting more kilometres per litre lists the habits that follow. Keep a record in a fuel log so that you notice any fall in efficiency early.

Frequently asked questions

What mileage should I expect? It depends on the model, its age and the conditions. Ask several owners of the same model what they actually get, and use that range as your reference, not the seller's claim.

Should I take a mechanic along? If you are not confident, yes. The cost of an hour of an experienced mechanic's time is small compared with a bad purchase.

Is a newer bike always more efficient? Newer designs often have better fuel systems, but a well-kept older bike can match a neglected newer one. Condition matters more than age.

Red flags that should make you walk away

Be ready to leave if the seller refuses a test ride, if the papers do not match the bike, if the engine or frame numbers appear altered, if there is fresh paint over a damaged frame, or if the price is far below the market for no clear reason. A good bike has an owner who is happy to answer questions. Take your time, and do not let anyone rush you into a decision.

A used motorcycle is a long-term purchase, and fuel is its largest running cost. Check the efficiency as carefully as you check the price. You can use our fuel calculator to compare what different mileage figures would cost you at current prices from the price table.